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Greenhouse garlic farming in Kenya is an excellent way to control the growing environment and maximize production. However, it is not economically viable to construct a greenhouse for garlic farming. The garlic crop acts as a good rotational crop to greenhouse crops such as: tomatoes.
Here are some key points to consider when engaging in greenhouse garlic farming:
Planting garlic in a greenhouse
To plant garlic in a greenhouse successfully, using seed cloves or bulbils, along with proper spacing and planting depth, is the solution. In this section, we will dive into these sub-sections, exploring the best practices to ensure healthy garlic growth.
Using seed cloves or bulbils
When planting garlic in a greenhouse, you have two options – seed cloves or bulbils! Here are some key points to note:
- Seed cloves are mature garlic bulbs, stripped of their skin.
- Bulbils are small bulbs that grow on garlic stems.
- Seed cloves should be planted individually, pointed end up.
- Bulbils should be planted 1 inch deep, pointy side up.
- Both require rich, well-drained soil and frequent watering.
Proper spacing and planting depth
Plant each clove just below the surface of the soil (about 2.5cm deep) with the pointed end facing up. They should be 10-15cm apart. For several rows of garlic, space the rows roughly 30cm apart. This will give them plenty of space and help with weeding.
Watering requirements
Simply water the soil if it is dry (around 2-4 inches every four days). Never pour water over the crowns. Decrease irrigating when it stops producing fresh leaves and starts to develop bulbs.
Use a drip irrigation system or water near the base of the plant. Mulching helps keep the soil moist and protect roots.
Importance of fertilizing
Fertilizing is also important. Use a balanced fertilizer with nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium early in the growing season and again when the bulb forms. Too much nitrogen gives lush foliage but smaller bulbs.
- Check your soil pH to get the best results. Garlic needs range 6-7.5.
- Use a starter fertilizer with 5-10-5 or 4-12-0 when you plant.
- When the plant starts growing, switch to a balanced fertilizer with 10-10-10 or 12-12-12.
Common garlic problems
Garlic does not grow fully with competition so make sure it is properly weeded.
White Rot is a fungus that can strike garlic in a cold climate. It upsets the bottom of the roots and leaves. It can be solved by rotating crops.
Bulb mites seldom hurt garlic. It is feeding on stalk bases and bulbs. You may also want to proceed with crop rotation to kill these mites.
Birds can sometimes be a problem. They can destroy the seedlings, garlic shoots, and leaves. However, this shouldn’t be a problem in your greenhouse.
Natural and chemical pest control methods
For pest and disease control, natural and chemical methods may be used. Organic growers may prefer natural methods while conventional farmers lean towards chemicals. Natural methods include:
- Using predatory insects to feed on pests.
- Crop rotation to reduce pest populations and improve soil health.
- Using physical barriers such as nets to protect plants from birds and other damaging animals.
Chemical methods include:
- Using pesticides to kill or repel insects that damage crops.
- Genetically modifying crops to produce toxins that kill or repel pests.
Harvesting and storing garlic
The sign is to observe for yellow crowns before they become totally dry. The bulbs are ripe when most of the low-hanging leaves are browned. When the leaves become brown, they start falling off. Harvest before all leaves fall off or when the plant has four or five leaves left. Dig, do not uproot! Remember that reckless reaping can injure a quality crop of garlic. You may need a fork or scoop to lift the bulb from the soil and then dry it out. Enjoy!
Cure in a warm, dry place with good air flow for two to four weeks. Outer layers should be papery and cloves hardened.
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